Saturday, May 18, 2013

Ua Pou (Wapoo) Marquesas


Ua Pou 
May 12, 2013
Left Nuku Hiva today for a beam reach sail to Hakahau Bay, Ua Pou and the last island we will visit in the Marquesas.  This rugged island has about 2000 residents and is the capital village, Hakahau. We are anchored behind a break wall that if it wasn't here would be an unprotected anchorage. As it is, we have a stern anchor out to keep us from rolling in the swells.
We arrive on Sunday to the squeals of children all out swimming and jumping off the break wall. The happy noise is a treat to hear. The volcanic spirals unique to this island, Ua Pou and depicted on the 500 franc currency juts straight up out of the valley. It's an awesome sight!
Children playing on break wall.
Other boats in anchorage; Breeze, Seqwun and Sea Whisper. We explore the town and plan a hike next day over the mountains to the other side of island to Haakuti Bay, a remote beach known for the "petite fleur" rock that is only found here and that the island carvers use for their unique pieces.
This 14 mile round trip hike seemed like a good idea when we first started up the hill... and soon it became obvious we would have to "thumb a ride" if we were to make it all in one day! Luckily, there are many pickup trucks going by and soon one stopped for our gang of seven and over the hill we went!
Beautifully carved signs tell us where to go.

Haakuti beach is remote and rough. We are careful beach combing as the waves crash on shore. We are looking the "flower rock"and Ella finds one!
Ella finds a "petite fleur" rock!


Beach combing on Haakuti Beach

Snack time. 


Beach Tiki

We spend a few hours rock hunting, then hike back up to the village where we meet a local parent who invites us to a school lecture in progress at the ancient ceremonial site called a "tohua". A Marquesan historian is telling stories of old to the students when we arrive. When he finishes in French, he graciously answers our questions in English. The the three lanquages taught in the Polynesian schools are French, English and Marquesan.
This village is named for Valley of the Kings and the beach has a name meaning "broken canoe" because so  many canoes didn't make it? 
Listening to lecture at ancient ceremonial plaza, a tohua.
Tohua still used for tribal ceremonial meetings
We learn that this plaza is still used for tribal gatherings every four years. All the Polynesian islands as far away as Hawaii send representatives to meet, discuss share and dance. Pretty cool.
What do you think?  This Tiki has got it all!
Any comparison?? 

Koika Tapatapa

Tikis at the Tohua


We get a ride back to Hakahau from the same generous people who gave us the ride in. They make this  trip each day to take their kids to school back and forth daily. Wow. We are grateful for the ride.
Hahahu anchorage
Tahina and boyfriend( sorry didn't get his name). She was our hostess at the Snack Shack
One night we found ourselves wandering around for a place to eat and nothing was open. ( it's so much more fun to eat off the  boat!) Another friendly person stopped and drove us all to a "snack shack" on the side of the road. It was a "mom & pop" business serving only three things; chow mein, poisson cru (raw fish) and steak and frites. Perfect.  Our hostess, Tahina, spoke good English and while our food was prepared, told us all about her island. So informal and fun. I invited her to be our guest at our house if she ever gets to California. Our orders ready to go and back to the boat for dinner! 


The invisible man visits Wizard!
The next day we sailed north to another remote part of the island, Bay Vaiehu. This looks like a really rolly anchorage and wild! Let you know more, later.

Sunset in Vaiehu Bay, Ua Poa








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