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| Beautiful Marquesa sunset |
We didn’t plan on spending a whole month in the Marquesas. It just happened. It’s a rugged and wild land and we’re really glad we stayed so long to feel the “vibe” and get to know the people and the different islands. We enjoyed many adventures on the five islands visited. I’ve detailed some of these favorites in past blogs, but here is my recap:
Favorite Island Highlights:
1. Snorkeling with the dolphins (or close enough)-Fatu Hiva
2. Awesome Snorkeling at Hanamenoa Bay- Tahuatu
3. Hike to Haakuti Beach- Ua Pou
4. Hike to waterfall- Daniel’s Bay, Nuku Hiva
5. Horse back ride on Toohii Plateau-Nuku Hiva
6. Anahoe Bay for beauty and snorkeling- Nuku Hiva
Least Favorite Island:
Hiva Oa was my least favorite island. We stopped here because we were supposed to. This is the official check in port of entry, but the anchorage is small and rolly. It’s not very cruiser friendly as the town is far away from the anchorage. It’s a taxi ride or a long walk for food and provisioning. Not very convenient. I'm sure this island has lots to see, but if you're a cruiser on a boat, I’d skip this landfall in favor of others.
Best Foods in the islands:
Poisson Cru- raw fish marinated in coconut milk- (served everywhere!)
Baguettes (baked fresh daily, everywhere)
Pizza @ the Moana Nui Restaurant- Nuku Hiva
Chez Henri- best restaurant on the wharf -Nuku Hiva
Snack Shack Tahianunuu- good food-free internet-Nuku Hiva
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| Best Tuna Tartare!- Snack Shack Tahianunuu |
Most Expensive:
Beer & Wine
Candy, ice cream & snack chips (good thing..no chocolate for me!)
Nuts and whole foods (apples @ 6.00 lb, cashews @ 8.00lb) Wow! but, there is plenty of local fresh fruits available to purchase, so who needs apples from Washington?
On the whole, it’s more expensive for everything in the Marquesas. They import almost everything! But, hey, it is what it is. So, we buy what we need…you either enjoy or complain.
About the people…the Marquesans are truly welcoming and sharing. Everyone says "koaha"or hello. Just yesterday, we had an "accident" when our tied up at the dock dingy with motor flipped over in the swells with motor completely submerged! The local fishermen jumped in and righted the swamped dingy! Then one helpful local worked on getting the outboard motor running! There were 5 or 6 guys helping and giving advise. Tony, the local fisherman was the successful one in getting the outboard up and running. But, gift of time and energy is a custom to give without expecting any payment. Their crafts are unique and there seems to be a renaissance of the tradional arts, like dancing, drumming, tattooing and carving.
The tour freighter, the Aranui comes every two weeks and delivers needed supplies and brings the tourists who help promote this economy. The cruisers also contribute to the economy by making this their last stop for provisioning before heading on to other south sea islands. These islands are not yet, exploited by super hotel complexes and golf courses. Thank goodness for now.
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| Another Marquesan tattoo. This swallow depicts a sailor's five-thousand miles. Note the five small waves near the bottom of the bird head. Groovy, heh? |
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