Adios, Mexico!

John, Sue and crew Mark on Wizard

Goodbye, Mexico! It's time to say Adios! We've sailed around these waters for five months and now it's time for new adventures. We are off to the South Pacific Islands.  First, the Marquesas then...who knows? We'll let you know later...

We've met some really great friends these past months and it's hard to let go and move on. The sailing community is fluid and always moving. People come and go...but, friends are forever, so we know we'll meet some of you again!

We spent a few hours yesterday in Paradise Marina checking OUT of Mexico. It's quite a production with the Port Captain, the Immigration Officer and the Military officer( just to let you know it's serious)... they all actually come aboard your boat to check on ...what?? Kidnapped kittens?? Very curious. It all pomp and fluff!

Anyway, we are legally leaving Mexico bound for the South Pacific with new friends and adventures waiting.

Sue holds the Zarpe, our official document to exit from Mexico with  Mark, Mexican Military and Capt. Juan 

Mark, our new crew member

Mark Rudenaur is our new crew member helping us sail across the Pacific. We met him on the beach in Punta de Mita and liked him right away. He's a fellow sailor and surfer looking for new adventures. He has taken a year off from work to travel. We are happy to have his talents ( strong arms!) and company on our passage to the South Pacific.

Wizard in Yelapa

Wizard in Yelapa

We met our family in Yelapa. We sailed from La Cruz to meet them and enjoyed seven days anchored  in front of the house they rented for the week. It was so much fun!
We had heard stories and read the guidebooks about Yelapa being a hard place to anchor. The bay is too deep to anchor and the swells make an uncomfortable boat motion.  It is suggested by the locals to secure a mooring ball as the best choice for an overnight anchorage.  I was prepared for the worst night’s sleep. But, as it turned out, we had a perfect weather window with mild to non-existent winds. The bay was calm and lake-like many times. Our time on the mooring ball was great! It was fun being close to the kids' house to dingy ashore and just hang out with them.

Beautiful beach in Yelapa

 As we approached the bay, we were greeted by two different ponga drivers asking our intentions and length of stay. Everyone is related in Yelapa as the local natives own the land communally. The ponga drivers (probably cousins) compete for our business. (I’m still not sure if the monies collected through tourism are shared as a group or does each family get whatever “piece of the action” they can get?)
Anyway, the one-ponga driver offers us a mooring ball for the going rate of 200 pesos ($20 USD). But, only for one night, as he “is very busy and only has one mooring ball” to offer us. But, we say we need a week. We scan the anchorage off the beach and see only a few available mooring balls. Are the moorings owned by certain families? Does the community share the rental fees? Are the moorings safe? We are deciding what to do, when the other ponga driver, Bully his name, comes by and says, “no problem, take my mooring, all week! Same price!” He directs us to the largest ball in the anchorage.  His cousin comes back and just shrugs his shoulders when we say we are taking Bully’s mooring for the week.  Is he mad at us for not renting his?

We are cautious not knowing the procedure of the tie on and safety. But, Bully assures us his ball is the best and strongest. To be sure, Capt. Juan backs down on the mooring ball just as he would on our anchor to set it. . It holds. We are satisfied. Bully also invites us to eat at his sister’s restaurant where he also works and makes sure we know about  his other services, like if we want a fishing trip or snorkeling tour to the Tres Marietas or whatever..he can arrange for us. We realize this is a tourist based economy and only for a short four months season. These families survive on our tourist dollar.

Austin, Thad,  John, Sarah,  Brooke (baby soon, too!) baking in the sun...

Our family arrived on the water taxi from Puerto Vallarta just hours after our we got settled in.  I quickly stocked up at the nearest tienda and supplied them with fresh food, coffee and cold beer!
We greet them at the dock. Six people with luggage empties the boat as they pour out. They have brought many items we requested from home. Thank you, kids! Much needed gear, like a replacement VHF handheld radio and the quick release pins for the dingy wheels...and kite surfing board and sails! John hopes to try his luck with this sport, too!
We hadn't seen each other since we left on our sailing adventure in September 2012. We missed all the holidays together, so this trip to Yelapa was like our family-get- together!

Who's the hunk?

Austin tries our new  SUP

mother and daughter 

If you haven’t been to Yelapa, it’s really a trip! A step back in time. There are no cars only water taxis to and from Puerto Vallarta. Walking the cobblestoned pathways that maze through the village past open doorways  is the only mode of transportation and offers peeps into the local residences who live a communal life. Also, present is an eclectic, aged hippie-music-art culture that is left over from the 70's...massage, yoga, healing arts and a writers hang out contribute to "vibe" of  Yelapa. We know because we visited Yelapa way back when it was undiscovered. There was no electricity, no water purification or paved walks... now these new upgrades ( paid for by generous gringos) have brought the tourists.
 "Turn left at the green toilet", are the directions to "Bob's place", as we pass a discarded pile of junk on our way to the house my kid's rented...everyone in the village knows where this is. Down the path to the beach, over the broken cement pathway littered with donkey poop. Everyone knows the way. Everyone knows everyone. Small town. There are unfinished homes, some garbage piled on the side that just exists...garbage must be taken out to recylcing by boat...the village is starting to care- it's a work in progress...but also,there are many really beautiful homes with well cared for gardens and flowers galore!
The villagers use burros or horses and quad motor cycles for working around town or tourist porting to and from the many vacation rentals and boutique hotels. There is the "old mexico" feel about the the village  as well as "gringo pricing" at many great restaurants. We enjoyed the "juxtapositions" of both.  There is a great beach scene with food palapas, vendors, para sailing and para gliding off the high mountain down to the beach.  It's very tropical with coconut palms  to the beach, unlike the north side of Banderas Bay which has more arrid vegetation.

Thad enjoys the SUP

Jasmine in Yelapa

The happy couple...soon to be new parents!

One day we hiked up to the waterfall. It's a popular two hour hike up a dusty trail up the canyon and through the village. We got a glimpse of the simple way of life the Yelapanese people live. The open air homes with thatched roofs so different than what we live in, but are completely adequate for this climate...no solid walls...the cooling breeze flows through. We were warned of scorpions, cockroaches, skunks(coatis) and other creatures that come and go freely through the open bars and windows of these homes.  My "city kids" were a little squeamish...but it becomes home for a week.

Thad, Sara, Jasmine and Ali on the waterfall hike
We made a wrong left turn somewhere and so ended up below the "famous" waterfall...but we had a great hike anyway. The next day, the kids rented horses and found the right way, this time successful.

Waiting for orders...

Boy and his bicycle on the path up to the waterfall

Someone gave wrong directions to the waterfall... look what happened to him!

The next day we took the kids out on the sailboat for a snorkeling trip up the coast. We wanted to give them a glimpse of our life on a boat. They had fun paddling around and swimming.

Thad and Jasmine paddle to beach

Sarah 

The next day we rented a fishing ponga for a day trip to the Tres Marietas. It was a perfect weather window with sunny skies. We saw a humpback whale with baby breeching out of the water. The boat driver got really close for us to get some great pictures. My picture doesn't capture this magnificent creature.  I will post a great shot Jasmine took as soon as I get it. 

 Humpback whale breeching on boat ride to Tres Marietas

Mermaids: Sarah, Sue, Jasmine, Ali, Brooke

White sands beach of Tres Marietas

 

The ponga ride to Tres Marietas


Our day included snorkeling where we saw many colored fish and coral. Our tour guide landed us on a white sand beach had all to ourselves. We played and snorkeled in the surf, while our ponga driver made us bonita ceviche for lunch.  The fish were different in the surf than the coral feeders.  Awesome!

Sue 

Jasmine and Ali

Thad, Sarah and John

The Tres Merietas  are wild rocky preserves.

Brooke

We had heard that the islands are are a great day anchorage, but not recommended to stay overnight... we see how rocky and rough the seas are and glad we chose to visit by rented ponga and not sail our our boat...

Rocky anchorage at Tres Marietas

Our days in Yelapa were busy...eating. drinking, snorkeling, boating, paddling, hiking....we could've used one more day lazy day on the  beach... but, oh well, ... time to  say farewell with one more dinner at Tacos Y Ma!..

Tacos Y Mas!  farewell dinner!

We had a great time in Yelapa! We hope to do this again! 

 OUR plans are to continue sailing off to the South Pacific. We leave for the Marquesas Islands tomorrow, Mach 28th.  We have planned, provisioned,  geared up and are ready to go! We will share our new adventures some 21 days from now when we reach Hiva Oa or Fatu Hiva our first landfall. 

Wish us fair winds! 

Adios Amigos!

Elizabeth and Brian

Adios Amigos!

Today our good friends, Brian and Elizabeth on Autumn Wind sail away from the Punta de Mita anchorage. They begin their northern passage up into the Sea of Cortez.  Ultimately, this will be the beginning of the end of their yearlong sailing adventure in Mexico as they head back to jobs and family. We will miss them, but remember all our fun times together! We'll not say goodbye...we WILL meet again!

Sailing on Shindig

Fair winds to you!

What Do We Need?

Local market in La Cruz

Everyday on a boat there’s a list of things you think you need. The shopping list becomes a running tab of items needed from shore.  Items of need must be categorized by importance because the process of getting to shore for the store is huge on a boat. 

Local fish market in La Cruz

First, one must get the dingy off the boat and into the water. Then dingy to shore and hopefully not get wet in the landing.( So, take extra clothes in the “Dry bag” just in case). Then hike to a bus stop or taxi depending on where you are going. Could be to the Mega supermarket for groceries and beer, to the bank for money or to the marine supply or just to tacos on the street?

Today, we need some groceries.
Not a lot. Beer, tomatoes to make salsa potatoes and chicken for dinner.  A walk through the local market usually satisfies most our needs.

Most going ashore events are planned. Sometimes not...sometimes we just dingy ashore with just enough money and clothes to cover any spur of the moment event that pops up… like tacos on the street for dinner...

 Street tacos in La Cruz

After street tacos

I especially liked when our friend Elizabeth kayaked to shore the other day and stepped out in a dress! She was dressed and ready for anything the day might bring!

Elizabeth dressed and ready for anything!

Our next big shopping day is coming  before our kids visit and the"list" is getting bigger. We'll probably rent a car again and pack it all in one day.  Oh, the joys of living on a boat!

Punta Paddling

Morning paddle session

Deborah and Nancy

Feb-20-2013

Having fun! You’d think we were 20 year olds!  We're out every day doing something fun in the water or on the beach. We're back and anchored in Punta de Mita on the northern point of Banderas Bay with several others (20 boats at last count) with old friends and meeting new ones. Since, I don’t own a stand up paddle board (SUP for short) I’m at the mercy of others who generously offer to let me borrow theirs. I’m learning the moves. Once you get the balance and strokes down then you can graduate to surfing the waves. This area is known for it’s beginner waves and all ages are out learning.

The last few days we have gathered with friends on the beach, some boarding, some kayaking most just relaxing, watching the the kids play, watching the beach action.

Rob and Danny dingy the SUPs out to the break

 Rob (Shindig) and Danny( Cyclades) tow their paddle boards out to a reef on the point where the surf breaks. As do others who have mobile transportation, the dingy. This is our "car" and only way to get around.  I actually had to learn how to "drive" the other day.  I accomplished my first dingy drive through the wave sets to get to the beach.   A friend was guiding me through the sets as she watched the waves,  I timed the breaks and we passed through to the landing on the beach. A big deal for me!

John is finding his water sport.  The inflatable kayaks we have are good for cruising around, but not challenging enough.  He tried the SUP but his knees won’t let him. ( 20 years in construction trades gives you bad knees!) So, he tried sitting and paddling…this may be the way to go. He caught a few waves. He also is looking for the right wave for boogie boarding. We see the kids doing it. So far he hasn’t found a wave that he likes.

Boards on the beach

Table talk

Young musicians  entertain the beach 

This morning the weather is windy and more challenging with choppy waves. It takes all my concentration to stay balanced and not fall in. It doesn't look hard, but it is! 

Friends and Sailing

Nancy, Rob John, Brian, Elizabeth and Sue 

Friends. That's what makes this trip so much fun! We've met some great people along the way and we enjoy sharing good times with them.  We've hooked back up with Rob & Nancy (Shindig) Brian & Elizabeth (Autumn Wind) and John & Cin (Alcyone) and Max & Liz their kids Jonathan & Victoria ( Fluenta) and many others. Our social calendar is filled!

Saturday started out with a girl's standup paddle board session...next a sailing race in Banderas Bay.

Paddling out the marina, Cin, Elizabeth, Sue & Nancy

Cin and Sue getting the hang of it

Wizard under sail 

Yesterday, we  joined a friendly sailing race out of La Cruz.  John and I have never raced, so we barely knew the rules of the "road" and in hindsight  it would've been to our advantage to go over which boat has "right of way" and paid attention to the two different courses according to the "class" of boat, but we jumped in anyway... it was a good experience and good fun.  We had some beginner's luck(?) at the start and managed to position Wizard at the first mark on time and off we sailed with 16 other boats.( Of course, we didn't know our place in the pack..so who knows maybe we were last?) There were two courses; short course, a mile up to mark, back to round the first mark again, then down to Nuevo Vallarta and back to La Cruz, then long course included downwind six miles to Puerto Vallarta and beam reach back to the La Cruz marina. This was very exciting for me as I was at the helm, while Capt. John directed the point of sail and handled the sails! It was a lot of work for this two man crew! But, we did OK. Wizard can go to weather really well,  so we "smoked" a few boats in our class( it looked like) on the first leg, but downwind, we were beat by those boats that flew their spinnakers. It was all unofficial, so we don't know really where we came in, but it didn't matter...other boats, too skipped some marks...you could make it a race or not. It turned into a long day.  We decided to turn around and head back before the last mark at Puerto Vallarta. We had "experienced" enough. We're glad we joined and learned a lot and tacked a lot! All good experiences to "push" for speed, trim sails and learn traffic control around so many boats sailing in the same vicinity together.

Fluenta under spinnaker

Wizard  to the mark

Rob at helm of his boat Shindig

Nancy at helm of her boat Shindig

After sail party on Shindig

...and at the end of the day, we gathered for "happy hour" onboard Shindig...always a treat! We'll miss our sailing friends when we all sail away to new adventures, but happy for the times we share now.